Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

1. you need to vent the speakers or move the electronics away from the speaker (heat rises) and seal the opening back up and do the wiring as you described. you might also lose any warranty on your new expensive speakers as well as not getting the specs desired since now the new wiring can impact th...

as long as it is really protected, then ok, but if it is exposed to moisture then i would be concerned.

here's the MDAT all SPL:

the thing is your MDAT was all loping rounded looking and not the usual jittery frequency response we typically see. so something is off...

yeah, the measurements are all wrong. i'd recommend reviewing the REW instructions and verify your configuration. there are really 2 sets of measurements you want to make: 1) corner to corner (speaker low in one corner, omni mic pointing up in opposite upper cross-corner) - 4x one per corner pair sw...

it's bracing - you would need to brace the two walls regardless and depending on any wind, seismic, or other natural impacts, will determine how much of it you need. so, for high isolation cases like room within a room, you still need the interior walls to be stable relative to the exterior ones (yo...

you will need to use the isolation braces to stabilise the two walls - that's pretty standard. Kinetics Noise, Mason Industries, and the ancon ones should work.

one of the things i did recently for a studio design in Brooklyn NY was to add cabinet space into the wall of hanger assemblies in the back of the room including racks for extra electronics. and typically in the front center of the soffit assembly is good for amps and other electronics for the speak...

the diameter "math" is a "rule of thumb" for minimum sizing. really it should be based on the LF response of the speaker and room sizing, and a whole bunch of other considerations (such as surround speakers reflecting off the baffle plates in the front of the room and related tim...

couple (or a few) thoughts: for a surround room - stereo mains in the soffits and separate surrounds (which is probably 98% of rooms i design when they want both). theory - the "infinite" baffle allows the LF energy to seamlessly extend onto the walls, floor and ceiling. and the +6db bump ...

i mention it because it looks like a layer of slab, then insulation, then slab... usually there is a barrier layer on earth, rigid insulation (if needed), then the slab... then again, if the "earth" is soft sand, then the layering shown might be needed to stablise it (my home is built on s...

welcome! that is some serious engineering there... i would run the roof support beam across the entire length for consistency. then run your i-joists. likely 195x47 @ 400mm. the roof will require enough mass to match your exterior walls - so if you cannot get the extra mass up there, then consider j...

the main isolation is the interior walls and ceiling are decoupled from the exterior stem wall and the exterior walls and roof. you'll still have transmission via the slab even if it's earth damped so there is a maximum of ~55db on a monolithic slab (only noticeable when the rest of the structure is...

typically you pour in a sealant between the slab and stem wall, sometimes it's a heavy rubber insert pressed in. hydrostatic pressure on that gap can be higher than you expect, so using the proper (and possibly expensive) sealing compound / "gasket" is necessary. gravel and tyvex will not ...

typically you pour in a sealant between the slab and stem wall, sometimes it's a heavy rubber insert pressed in. hydrostatic pressure on that gap can be higher than you expect, so using the proper (and possibly expensive) sealing compound / "gasket" is necessary. gravel and tyvex will not ...