Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

well, if you have doors and windows on the exterior - get yourself a free standing AC unit and vent it to the outside. you can move it around to be in proximity of your work (add an additional insulated flex duct segment to extend it as needed). a single 12K BTU unit will make a big difference - rem...

it works because the stiff mass layer on top of the insulation distribute it. so, weight "points" on the floor will be spread out. the stiffer and the more massive (hopefully this statement doesn't trigger anyone :-) ) the more the distribution, with the caveat that the insulation has to s...

it's the same for inside-out walls - you can add panels to increase the reflectivity. so, commit to the cloth, then add panels to provide scattering and reflectivity. here's some ideas on panels. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/manage/user/1685047250215519440213171?nav=models&pg=1&filter=pa...

actually, you can buy the calibrators - for the omni mics, it's a small device which slips over the end and provides a known signal from which you can derive the mic response curve -- however -- you do need the equipment to create the calibrator in the first place :-) but i think the home units are ...

the holes in the exterior parts is ok, not great, but they're the extensions for the soffit covers. given the edge of the wood is exposed (you'll note most OSB has a coating to resist moisture which can rapidly wreck OSB / particle board), you should paint or otherwise give a coat to seal those. on ...

very nice!

probably a bit late to the party here -- typically the best method to route the ducts AFTER the silencer, is in a ceiling soffit rather than risk structural issues in the ceiling joists. the soffits provide in room routing of ducts, wiring, accent lighting etc as well as significant absorption. agre...

the plywood should be ok - it needs to be at least 1/2" or 5/8" and i suggest exterior grade (density) and also ensure the fasteners are the right length at each layer. e.g. for the plywood, say 1/2", you would use 3/4" into the hat channel. the first gwb - 5/8", use 1-1/2&q...

plus what are you hanging on the ceiling? absorbers, clouds, likes, sex-chairs, etc :-) so you need to factor that in. i generally assume 12lb/ft between structure components, lights, clouds, and maybe things like mics, additional spot lighting etc. but let's say 10lb/ft2 let's say your 90ft2 is rea...

not using insulation in the air gap would be a mistake. you'll lose at least 6db of TL without it. pretty sure in PT, there are reasonably priced insulation products like rockwool which would significantly improve your isolation results. if the air lock room is only used as an air lock, then you don...

you'd want more insulation between the sleepers. you really want that OSB panels damped so having an extra inch (25mm) above the level of the sleepers would be the minimum. otherwise you're just building a drum head.

the key objective of the silencers is to plug the hole in the mass layers. the inter-mass gap is what it is. so a simple flex duct is ok there. what you don't want is to hard connect the two mass boundaries. one way i do that when i know the inter-mass gap will be "noisy" is to build a set...

yeah the only issue may be that the symmetry will be off in the mids and uppers due to the proximity of one wall versus the other.

depending on the rockwool product density - you might even put a layer of the rockwool into that air space. you have 8-3/4" air, and 9" of rockwool.

i would try to get the unfaced R-13 in there.