Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

yes, i think you want it on the clean/computer power circuit to avoid noise via the HDMI connection.

in the new design, for all intents and purposes the "front soffit" is effectively integrated into the front wall (a good thing and i do it all the time unless i need something deeper to accomodate larger ducts or interior ac units). and having the rear wall soffit - also good. as a general...

it would have been best to run a quick coat of dywall mud on the joins - so maybe do that for the walls. in generally, if you stagger the screws on 16" then you get approx a screw per 8" so that should be enough. so first layer - 1 1" screw per 16", second layer 1-3/4" (or 2...

generally the high performance camera plus proper switching boxes will produce the best results. typ these are the high res security cameras which physical wiring. one studio i had done in the US had 30+ cameras including outside (security), and inside rooms and CR for person to person collaboration...

q2 - i've used them in a number of studios with excellent results. invest in good quality cameras and a proper video controller so you can minimize the video on your DAW... some folks are sensitive to the (very) slight latency you might experience with cheaper equipment. q1 - we cannot tell you the ...

mounting on brackets attached to your build simply adds vibrations to your building... so i'd go with a detached concrete slab unless you're prone to flooding... remember in your planning to determine your drainage lines as well - sloped minimum 1/4:12 to ensure things drain, and also ensure the end...

presuming the AC unit is going into that frame - you'd want the wall behind it to be the same mass as the rest of the room. the box itself can be light weight as it's mainly a "cover" around the unit. all the wiring, plumbing etc is hidden.

i'd skip the GG in this application. and considering all things, it's expensive. but if you have the budget, then you may gain a bit more mid-range damping.

kinda bumping an old thread back to life... welcome to the resurrection

you want the point of the triangle to be about 12-18" behind your head, and generally, i like to put the acoustic center a few inches above your ears when you're sitting as it can help reduce fatigue. speakers also don't have to be on a perfect triangle if there are issues (like video monitors ...

a sustained measurement averaging levels would suffice, but it seems likely your subjective assessment does mean you need some isolation. this could be something like the "whisper room" products you shared.

welcome. is it possible to measure the amount of isolation you currently have? i.e. if you were to simply play, could anyone actually hear it? if so, how loud would it appear to be? one approach is to make a recording of you playing it, then play that on a stereo system to mimic the level and take s...

the chains are still a direct contact. you need a decoupler between. i've seen homebrew decouplers like plumbing washers (the thick soft rubber rings) which break the chain direct connection - should use several to distribute the weight and ensure the ring isn't stretched too much otherwise it defea...

the caulk needs 3 points of contact to ensure it stays sealed. the multiple layers of it also ensure when things shift, there is still a high probability that something will continue seal those gaps... i would prefer option 2 and if possible place the unit above the door for symmetrical noise and fl...

i would add another layer of 5/8" to the inside of the whisper wall panels and leave the gap, but plan on using decoupled isolation sway bracing to make sure the whisper walls are full stable. i.e. the attach to the 2x4 frame and the whisper wall @ about 3/4 of the way up the wall, and 48"...