Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

like any construction process - from the foundation & framing to the finish - each layer is a refinement over the previous one - in tolerances and surface finish. so as Jennifer noted - the less than perfect plywood (sealed up, of course :-) ) then the first layer of drywall - with some rough ta...

i would consider using 2 low speed fans one on intake and one on exhaust. filtering on intake (as a general rule i recommend using HRV/ERV product for energy, long term reliability and filtering vs diy fan assemblies). the use of the two fans will help balance the air flow and can also help reduce n...

very nice! the extra rigidity should help as it raises the resonant frequencies which are more easily damped when you layer in MLV and/or fill up the space with insulation.

most low noise registers also need low noise air movement - so if your air velocity out of the register is still "fast", then step one would be to reduce the speed - expansion of the air volume is one way to do it after reducing the fan propulsion at the air handler. in general, you need l...

the 2mm on the trim is my habit. i leave it off the floor and seal it with caulk before painting. it matters slightly if you have decoupled the walls from the floor (e.g. Kinetics Noise Wallmat etc).

#1 - they are in conduit, so most codes would see that a wholly separated. the main reason would be potential interference from the digital circuits or mistakenly plugging your internet gear into 230v... if you have proper grounding (star grounding etc) then the possible interference from the networ...

good to know as me thinks our daughter wants to do some touring of the UK

so, if you have 260cfm and use a 1ft2 duct (round or square) barring all kinds of things like friction etc - you get a speed of about 260fpm velocity. if i go to a 2ft2 duct, i approximately halve the velocity. 12" x 24" = 288in2 20" round = 314.6in2 etc math (e.g. with inches) (handy...

eggsellent! yes, we call "crisps" = "chips". handy reference: https://www.mashed.com/279089/is-there- ... nch-fries/

as eightamrock noted - the weak points will be the ceiling (unless you're also making that concrete :!: ), roof, and any openings you make in the dual brick walls such as windows, doors, hvac, lighting, etc. the reason for stud walls and drywall - if you have an exterior brick layer, then the drywal...

so - the thick material in the box - good. on the buzzing - the noise is related to the speaker output and not the air flow? if the space around all of that is filled with insulation (which is will be evenutally), i'd suggest in most cases this eliminates the problem. one other option is to make a &...

the fermacell approach looks like an option if it's in your budget (https://www.fermacell.com/en/flooring) as is the self-leveling compounds. either way you could put a hard layer (e.g. OSB) then your finish flooring. on the isolation question - i'd recommend you use isolation platforms for the drum...

generally you want the soffits below the edge of the console or desk to be absorptive - so routing wiring in the lower section should not be an issue. many times you can create a wiring trough across the front to keep things need and cover it.

maybe smartdraw? https://app.smartdraw.com/editor.aspx?t ... &flags=128

correct - the general ducting can be installed as a permanent part hidden away, but you should have access to the maintenance points - filters, a way to perform duct cleaning every 3-4 years, fans, etc etc.