Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

caulk on the gaps then mud.

assuming the top door is the house entry - consider building a wall in 3' or so from the top wall and making the door area the "airlock" and the rest as storage closet(s). this adds a barrier... then on the new construction - line between the studs and joists 5/8" type-x drywall. then...

that seems to be workable.

i suspect - no. the consideration is erosion over time. constant air flow will cause things to come off and enter the air your breath. if you do want to use it, then consider a lining over it to prevent it from escaping. a thin tough plastic will work. you'll miss some of the HF absorption but it ma...

so probably a bit late here: but when i do inside-out, i prefer to layout the full set of joists and using joist hangers + a ledger board to ensure full support, then slide the materials up on the joists and then spread them out and (assuming you have the room overhead) secure them, then the last se...

ahhh. gotta love caulk. caulk is your friend. you will learn to hate caulk, but caulk will still be your friend.

it will still do it's job in your case, but generally, for small systems, as long as it's not foil covered, or is perforated foil, it should be ok as a sealed surface on it could reduce its effectiveness at absorption - whereas in large systems you might want large runs to have the foil to reduce fr...

cheers!

yes it will make a difference for the better -- with the caveat that fans make noise - mechanical and air noise. so keep them on the far side of the silencers is key - but also consider maintenance - cleaning, replacement etc. the main reason i recommend ERV/HRV units - powerful air flow, configurab...

yes, you can definitely do the REW measurements and pretty sure you make some analysis

if i was going to shorten it, i would go with 4.75m - 4.875m on the length as that will be a smoother distribution and overall metrics which are beneficial. Computed Information: Room Dimensions: Length=4.75 m, Width=3.5 m, Height=2.6 m Room Ratio: 1 : 1.34 : 1.82 R. Walker BBC 1996: - 1.1w / h < l ...

yeppers - all of the remaining space is filled. sometimes i layer with 1-2" of semi-rigid (e.g. 703) inside the frame faces, then a layer of MLV, and interior filled with lightweight batts. but sometimes it's too small or costly so i just do the lightweight, cover with cloth, and then add slats...

Yes your air velocity into the silence can be faster speed and then through expansion, slow down, before exiting the low noise vent.

yes, definitely try to set the fan speed with the least amount of possible electronics noise. this way after a session is done and some more air is needed, just crank it. :-) same with lighting - having work lights to see what you're doing during set up / tear down and general maintenance, and then ...

the silencer and plenums can all be in the room :-) when i'm designing, i typically use wall-ceiling soffits to allow me to route air, wires, lighting etc PLUS get a lot more absorption while freeing up the walls and floor spaces. here's an example of a silencer in the soffit feeding a plenum center...