952 Studios Construction!
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952 Studios Construction!
It’s been a few months. Been busy with my day job so this project has taken a back seat. That said I got a few exciting updates
First I ran the conduit for running all the cabling between the rooms. It took a lot of trial and error with fitment and parts but I’m happy with the outcome. For the shorter run I used regular pvc with a few 90° turns for good measure and decoupled it by cutting the pipe and using a rubber sleeve I found at Home Depot to connect the 2 ends. The other pipe goes up into the attic and I’ll drop cables in from there.
The second exciting thing is I was able to source a few doors. If you are lazy like me, all I really wanted was to find a good cheap foundation to start with. These jeldwens were custom ordered 1.75” thick interior fire rated doors. You can get them in fiber core or stave core. The difference being that stave core is basically pieces of hardwood glued together to make a solid piece. I chose this option because it was more dense and provided a better medium for me to cut into when I’m ready to add glass. They also had the option of adding weather stripping and a transom which I did. I’ll beef all that up, but at least I’m not cutting a door and building a frame. For $500 each, I think it was a good deal.
First I ran the conduit for running all the cabling between the rooms. It took a lot of trial and error with fitment and parts but I’m happy with the outcome. For the shorter run I used regular pvc with a few 90° turns for good measure and decoupled it by cutting the pipe and using a rubber sleeve I found at Home Depot to connect the 2 ends. The other pipe goes up into the attic and I’ll drop cables in from there.
The second exciting thing is I was able to source a few doors. If you are lazy like me, all I really wanted was to find a good cheap foundation to start with. These jeldwens were custom ordered 1.75” thick interior fire rated doors. You can get them in fiber core or stave core. The difference being that stave core is basically pieces of hardwood glued together to make a solid piece. I chose this option because it was more dense and provided a better medium for me to cut into when I’m ready to add glass. They also had the option of adding weather stripping and a transom which I did. I’ll beef all that up, but at least I’m not cutting a door and building a frame. For $500 each, I think it was a good deal.
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952 Studios Construction!
Soundman2020 wrote:eightamrock wrote:Source of the post Also, not sure how to calculate the amount of desiccation I need. Anyone know the formula?
Depends on what type of desiccant you use!
Silica gel seems to be the most common, so I'll assume that's it.
For silica gel, I normal use 200 grams per cubic meter of air space in the window cavity. Measure size of glass pane (width, height) and distance between glass panes: Multiply all three to get the volume. If one pane is bigger than the other, use the dimensions of the largest one.
It's OK to overdo it a bit with the quantity of silica gel, but don't go too far, or the air inside will be too dry: the wood of the window frame might dry out and crack after a few months / years. Use the right amount, and up to about 30% more, but don't go too crazy. And do make sure it is dry and dehumidified, before you put it in! What I do is to "cook" it for several hours, to make sure it is perfectly activated, before putting it in and seal up the windows. In other words, if it is the type that changes color, make sure it is the right color before you put it it! Either blue or orange, depending on the type. But never pink or green! If it is the wrong color, or if it is not colored at all and you don't know if it is dry or saturated, it probably needs "cooking". To do that, I heat it in an oven set to about 125 °C (about 250°F) for several hours, then put it in the cavity and seal the glass in place as soon as possible afterwards. It's OK for it to sit for a few hours while it cools, and while you get things in place, but don't let it sit for days, as it will start adsorbing moisture from the atmosphere and already be partly saturated by the time you put it in.
Silica Gel is pretty inert: it's actually similar to quartz or sand, chemically, so you can put it on or in pretty much anything, to hold it. Those labels that say "Do not eat! You will die horribly!" or whatever, that you see on the packs of silica gel in cameras, shoes, pills, handbags, etc. are because of the additives that they put in so that it changes color when dry / damp: That color-change chemical stuff is poisonous, but not the actual silica gel itself. It's no more dangerous than sand. If you got the stuff that does not change color, then you could use pretty much anything you want to make the "tray" to hold it. If you got the color-change stuff, then I'd go with plastic: you can find plastic "profiles" in hardware stores, such as Home Depot, and use that to make small trays to hold it, then glue and staple those to one side of the frame gap. Don't use metal or wood for the color-change stuff, as there might be reactions with the color chemicals.
Spread out the silica gel as much as you can in the "trays", to get maximum surface area exposed to the cavity air.
NOTE: The above only applies to silica gel! Other types of desiccant are different. Some cannot be "cooked", or need different temperatures. All need different amounts per unit volume of air.
- Stuart -
Hi Stuart! Im making great progress. On the desiccant, I have found silica desiccant that comes in 5g packages, they recommend 1 package per 600 cubic inches. My window volume is 3240 cu in. So....
3240^3 / 1728^3 = 1.875’^3 = .053m^3 * 200g = 10.6G ~11G
By your math I need 11g or roughly 3 packets. Their math says I need 5.4 packets or 27g.
3240 / 600 = 5.4* 5g = ~ 27g
What do you recommend? My gut is to go with the manufacturers recommendation but Im worried about drying out the wood and cracking the window frame prematurely..... however, too little and Ill be seeing sweat in the windows...
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Question on the last layer of drywall. Do I caulk any gaps before mud or is mud enough without caulking on the finish layer?
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Hi all, for the 1/2" plywood layer on the inner leaf which serves as my base layer, what are your thoughts on using something like flashing tape to seal the seams instead of caulk? I'm finding that a lot of the gaps are going to be pretty difficult to seal as they are wide with nothing behind them, especially on the ceiling. Flashing tape is fairly heavy and dense, Im thinking I can use that since I will still have 2 layers of 5/8" on top that will all be caulked.
Pictures for reference, note that I discovered that the combination of isomax clips and hat channel didnt bring the first layer down from the ceiling low enough to clear the hip beams on my ceiling. My plan is to "bridge" the corner with a peak to wall 12" strip of plywood. so that nothing is touching those beams.
Pictures for reference, note that I discovered that the combination of isomax clips and hat channel didnt bring the first layer down from the ceiling low enough to clear the hip beams on my ceiling. My plan is to "bridge" the corner with a peak to wall 12" strip of plywood. so that nothing is touching those beams.
952 Studios Construction!
if you cannot use backer rod and caulk, then a proper rubber flashing tape should be ok as the new layers of drywall should secure the edges even if somehow adhesion is lost. then the usual backer rod and caulk for the drywall.
you could add clips and hat channel on the beam and wrap it with plywood and drywall to have a decoupled soffit.
you could add clips and hat channel on the beam and wrap it with plywood and drywall to have a decoupled soffit.
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gullfo wrote:Source of the post if you cannot use backer rod and caulk, then a proper rubber flashing tape should be ok as the new layers of drywall should secure the edges even if somehow adhesion is lost. then the usual backer rod and caulk for the drywall.
Thanks! This will make that job a ton easier.
gullfo wrote:Source of the post you could add clips and hat channel on the beam and wrap it with plywood and drywall to have a decoupled soffit.
This was effectively my plan, I was just going to attach the plywood to itself without the iso clip, but maybe an iso clip down the hip would make it more structurally sound, definitely will look into that.
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Been quite busy with my "day job" lately so progress has been slow, but saw a lot of progress in the last week I wanted to share. Ive been a bit demotivated by the project. Its difficult and exhausting, the level of detail required is also hard to balance with my own skill level. Ive redone a lot over and over again only to get the same results so at some point I have to accept "good enough" (sorry Stuart). Im hoping the collective good work will outweigh the collective mediocre work and I'll still get ample isolation for my needs. TBH my basement studio had enough, so anything better than that is great and I had NO idea what I was doing back then.
The first layer of plywood is done. Im going to tape the seams up with flashing tape and do my first layer of drywall in the live room this weekend! This proved really really challenging to do by myself. I "settled" on im perfection and hope to make up the difference in the drywall. Worst case scenario, I accounted for plenty of extra weight per clip for the ceiling so I can always do a 4th "finish" layer of 3/8" drywall or something to cleanup the mess I made.
Second, the electrical is finally run to the building. Im going to run an extra 1" pipe next to it for anything I might want to run out there in the future like network or fiber cables. We did the hook-up and I wired the panel. Dont worry there is no power yet, the main breaker in the house is not wired in. Its nice to move all these cables out of the way though. One more checkbox.
Dont have a picture of the completed run, but I assure you its done.
The first layer of plywood is done. Im going to tape the seams up with flashing tape and do my first layer of drywall in the live room this weekend! This proved really really challenging to do by myself. I "settled" on im perfection and hope to make up the difference in the drywall. Worst case scenario, I accounted for plenty of extra weight per clip for the ceiling so I can always do a 4th "finish" layer of 3/8" drywall or something to cleanup the mess I made.
Second, the electrical is finally run to the building. Im going to run an extra 1" pipe next to it for anything I might want to run out there in the future like network or fiber cables. We did the hook-up and I wired the panel. Dont worry there is no power yet, the main breaker in the house is not wired in. Its nice to move all these cables out of the way though. One more checkbox.
Dont have a picture of the completed run, but I assure you its done.
952 Studios Construction!
eightamrock wrote:Source of the post Been quite busy with my "day job" lately so progress has been slow, but saw a lot of progress in the last week I wanted to share. Ive been a bit demotivated by the project. Its difficult and exhausting, the level of detail required is also hard to balance with my own skill level. Ive redone a lot over and over again only to get the same results so at some point I have to accept "good enough" (sorry Stuart). Im hoping the collective good work will outweigh the collective mediocre work
I hear you! The combination of the materials being large, heavy, oddly angled, above your head and cut and fitted to high tolerances is very mentally and physically demanding. A challenge even for an experienced worker. I take my hat off to you for your persistence.
I think your conclusion is correct and console myself with accepting that these under layers can be ugly (not that yours is), which helps relax some of the above challenges a bit. For under layers of plasterboard I've caulked the seams between boards etc. Very quick and since you'll never see it, doesn't have to have an amazing finish. I imagine it would be much more expensive than tape and mud though.
Cheers!
Jennifer
Website: https://www.jenclarkmusic.com/
952 Studios Construction!
like any construction process - from the foundation & framing to the finish - each layer is a refinement over the previous one - in tolerances and surface finish. so as Jennifer noted - the less than perfect plywood (sealed up, of course ) then the first layer of drywall - with some rough tape and mud, followed by the final layer of drywall (sealed and taped, of course) and smoothing (using wet sanding vs dry if you want to reduce the devils dust) then painting. it will be much better than you can imagine now.
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endorka wrote:Source of the post I hear you! The combination of the materials being large, heavy, oddly angled, above your head and cut and fitted to high tolerances is very mentally and physically demanding. A challenge even for an experienced worker. I take my hat off to you for your persistence.
gullfo wrote:Source of the post like any construction process - from the foundation & framing to the finish - each layer is a refinement over the previous one - in tolerances and surface finish. so as Jennifer noted - the less than perfect plywood (sealed up, of course ) then the first layer of drywall - with some rough tape and mud, followed by the final layer of drywall (sealed and taped, of course) and smoothing (using wet sanding vs dry if you want to reduce the devils dust) then painting. it will be much better than you can imagine now.
Thank you both for the kind words. I continue to move the ball forward, its picking up a bit of pace now that Im down to the second to last layer of drywall. Making sure to take my time with each layer where I can, no gaps and as water tight as possible!
Here are some photos of the progress, my isolation brackets come this week and Ill be able to wrap those big joists up across the ceiling. I can see the finish line, but there is still a lot of work. Ive decided to hire out the spackling and sanding. I just dont have the shoulders for it.
952 Studios Construction!
very nice! one recommendation is to have them use wet finishing on the final layer as (in my experience) much less dust and smoother blending. the interim layers of course can be a rough blade (but no "blobs") finish.
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