green glue between acrylic glass and laminated glass

#1

Stuart will remember me as the guy building a studio on the 7th floor of an office building. If the soundproofing doesn't work as well as hoped, I will just do loud recordings (drums) after hours, so please don't warn me against the idea, I'm OK with it. I'm finally getting my permits to begin, with conditions that I work out an AC solution that doesn't complicate or disturb the existing plant , and secondly that I don't alter the appearance of the lobby glazed doors.

As the lobby glazed doors will be part of my external wall (for RWAR construction), they will need to have the 12mm gaps around the doors filled, and the entire door surface needs to be "beefed up" by attaching material equivalent to 12kg / m2 behind the glass to match the external walls on the other sides. These glazed doors will be blocked off and do not need to be transparent. It will be ok to have a frosted appearance, so long as at some point down the track, the reinforced material behind the glass can be removed to "make good" the original doors (for resale).

So, in order to avoid a triple leaf effect, I need a material that will attach directly on to the glass, that will not require it's own supporting frame, which would mean losing 90 - 100mm space inside the room. So my idea is to silicone 10mm acrylic glass (plexiglass?) directly to the rear of the existing 3 x 10.38mm laminated glass doors. This precludes the use of extra space consuming framing, and also avoids a 3rd lead . Furthermore, the plexiglass should be removable from the glass if need be by cutting through the silicone with some thin wire. I think it's messy, but the glass can be cleaned up (siicone scaped off?). The plexiglass may need a small border top and bottom to secure it, but should stay in place, no?

Anyway, if the plexiglass CAN attach to the glass and held in place with some silicone, I want to know if Green Glue can also be applied in between the acrylic and the glass, for some extra damping (not for adhesion). Maybe silicone around the edges, and green glue elsewhere?
If this is do-able, how easy will it be years later to remove GG from glass?

Thanks.

#2

That sounds like a challenge. How will you attach (as in screw or otherwise fix) the 20kg+ plexiglass to the existing glazed doors?

And who has some spare GG and can try a blob of it on a window? I have had to remove silicon before now and a razor blade flat on the glass is effective, albeit with a need to be careful that you don't cut yourself.

#3

I have had to remove silicon before now and a razor blade flat on the glass is effective, albeit with a need to be careful that you don't cut yourself.

+1. Of course I can't find mine at the moment (I'd post a pic, otherwise), but there is a gadget (a handle, really) that holds the razor blade flat to the glass, and does not promote blood-letting.

#4

Starlight wrote:Source of the post That sounds like a challenge. How will you attach (as in screw or otherwise fix) the 20kg+ plexiglass to the existing glazed doors?

.

Cleats?

#5

I found this on the green glue website a while back;

The Compound is used between two layers of building materials – typically drywall, OSB, MDF, cement board, or plywood, each at least 1/2 inch (12 mm) thick. One of the layers of which must allow moisture to pass through.

From memory, Stuart reckons at least one layer must allow moisture to pass through to allow the green glue to cure. Seems logical.

Whatever the reason, two layers of glass is not within the recommended use by the manufacturer. You might be better off using extra mass instead of green glue.

Cheers!
Jennifer

#6

endorka wrote:Source of the post I found this on the green glue website a while back;

The Compound is used between two layers of building materials – typically drywall, OSB, MDF, cement board, or plywood, each at least 1/2 inch (12 mm) thick. One of the layers of which must allow moisture to pass through.

From memory, Stuart reckons at least one layer must allow moisture to pass through to allow the green glue to cure. Seems logical.

Whatever the reason, two layers of glass is not within the recommended use by the manufacturer. You might be better off using extra mass instead of green glue.

Cheers!
Jennifer

Yeah, right, OK, I never though of that! Cheers. Maybe silicone some MLV in between? I've got enough MLV to do the job...

#7

That sounds more like it. I wouldn't go mad on the silicone though, just enough to hold the MLV in place. Removing silicone can be a major PITA. Is it required at all? Would it not be sufficient to attach it to the small top and bottom borders you mention?

Cheers,
Jennifer

#8

Greetings Jennifer,

Would it not be sufficient to attach it to the small top and bottom borders you mention?

My concern would be the stress from the weight of the MLV on the top border (If it is a trim piece).

All the best,

Paul

#9

SoWhat wrote:Source of the post Greetings Jennifer,

Would it not be sufficient to attach it to the small top and bottom borders you mention?

My concern would be the stress from the weight of the MLV on the top border (If it is a trim piece).

All the best,

Paul

I'm not sure what you mean, are you saying that silicone along the top of the MLV sheet would not be sufficient to hold it in place because of the weight of it? You reckon it might slide down? I don't mind the idea of using more silicone, but only if it can be removed one day. Surely peeling off the MLV shouldn't be too hard, and then scraping away the silicone from the glass with some kind of silicone remover?

It's weird how everything I seem to think of for my challenging build has little or no precedent where I can learn from the past experience of others on forums such as this. There has probably been a million studios built, and yet I can't find information or test data for so many things I may need to try. Unless someone can point me in the direction of some?

#10

I don't have a complete picture of what you are trying to achieve but from what I imagine, I would think sandwiching the MLV between the borders and door, secured by a series of screws going through the border into the wooden part of the door would be sufficient.

In my general experience of DIY work, making good screw holes after you're finished in the place is WAY quicker than scraping silicone residue off of things. There may be something I am missing though. Perhaps the wooden part of the door is antique wood, for example.

Cheers,
Jennifer

#11

I would think sandwiching the MLV between the borders and door, secured by a series of screws going through the border into the wooden part of the door would be sufficient.

This seems like a good plan. I would also put a fender washer on each side of the MLV.

#12

endorka wrote:Source of the post I don't have a complete picture of what you are trying to achieve but from what I imagine, I would think sandwiching the MLV between the borders and door, secured by a series of screws going through the border into the wooden part of the door would be sufficient.

In my general experience of DIY work, making good screw holes after you're finished in the place is WAY quicker than scraping silicone residue off of things. There may be something I am missing though. Perhaps the wooden part of the door is antique wood, for example.

Cheers,
Jennifer

There's no wooden part of the door. The original glazed door is frameless, an the side panels are also frameless glass.

#13

Maybe some photos would help give get a clearer understanding of your room, if you could manage that, Joe.

#14

Starlight,

I like the hammerdrill pic. I am wondering if there is any meaning behind it.

Paul

#15

It simply means I couldn't find any recent photo of me when I wanted a new avatar.

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