Speakerbox - flush mount

#1

I am contemplating making a front wall for my Quested v3110 speakers in my new and smaller homestudio. I found a build on instagram (see att. pictures) with the same speakers as I have.

My question:

1. the speakerbox is open in the back. I thought it should be closed there?

2. also looks like this build uses plywood. Is it smart to have a inner layer with mdf/hdf inside the speakerbox?

pictures borrowed from @superjanne

#2

rear ported speakers are a challenge as part of the tuning of the port is part of the overall manufacturer speaker response. and plugging the port can significantly changes things including the response, power levels, heat trapping, etc. one common option is to remove the electronics from the speaker (assuming they're powered) and locate the amp away from it and then seal the entire back. yes, frequency response will change - but sometimes manufacturers offer kits to relocate the electronics.
if they're passive, i still recommend leaving space on the back to vent, and also enable passive flow of air. you may also need to adjust the overall baffle plates to accommodate some LF wrapping to you have that possible phase to address.

#3

The speakers are front ported, the amplifier will be taken out and placed at the side wall or at the outer side of the flushwall (not underneath the speaker).

Regarding speaker box, if I go for this:

MDF box lined with two layers of 5/8" fire-rated drywall, 3/4" MDF.

What will the best way to make the box, is it ok to use glue?

#4

i'd just double up the 3/4" MDF, one box inside another and yes glue it and brads etc. use sorbthane or equiv to decouple the speaker from the box, or decouple the box from the soffit assembly. one option to ensure proper loading is to use adjustable ties to set the pressure on the pads so you can precisely get the lowest resonance response.

#5

Thx gulfo, I understand the speakerbox now

I think I will go for sorbthane to decouple. I have two more questions:

1. what clearence between speakerbox and speaker would you say is good? (half a cm, a cm for example).

2. do you have any information on the mdf waveguides (I think thats the name) in the corners?

#6

the clearance if you're going to decouple in the box will depend on the decoupler thickness etc. if the box will be decoupled, then make the box snug w/ some light rubber to keep it firmly in place yet still accessible.

the hangers? use some plywood or OSB, with insulation, leave about 1-2" air gap, and angle and size the depth as needed to keep an even front and approx 5-6" to the wall on each. line the walls with 2"-4" insulation.

#7

Thanks, The hangers it is

I will do some reshearch on hangers.

I found that sorbothane Hemisphere (50 Duro, 1.75") was right for my speakers. I will decouple in the box. I was wondering what type of clearence is good betwwen speaker and speakerbox?

link for hemisphere:

https://www.isolateit.com/collections/s ... 9778166945

#8

the speaker and box - my recommendation is a slightly snug fit to prevent movement.

#9

the speaker and box - my recommendation is a slightly snug fit to prevent movement.

#10

thx, is one centimeter too much clearence on top and side of the box?

underneath the will be sorbothane.

#11

that should be fine. i'd put a .75cm rubber mat on the bottom and on either side to keep it from moving. if the speaker has feet, maybe creating recesses for the feet in the bottom will work.

Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum