New build small size high isolation project

[Soundman2020]

Source of the post ... at the air speed I think we’ll have they would be fine.

Right. The whole system is designed to be rather low velocity air flow: that's the key to good HVAC for studios: high volume, low velocity. Internally, inside the silencers, it's only around 150 to 250 fpm., and around 200 - 250 at the registers. Higher in the round duct sections, of course (600 to 800, with the AHU going full blast), but those aren't lined with this liner! In any case, the liner is rated for flow velocities up to 6,000 fpm, so I think we should be good with 200 fpm... Those fasteners inside the silencer boxes should be fine: maybe very slight turbulence, but nothing to be worried about.

However, I would not use them inside the sleeves: Those do need to have smooth sides. The good thing about the sleeves is that they are accessible from inside the room, so if the liner does come loose, you would be able to replace it without too much hassle.

There should be no dust build up on those fasteners, since you'll be using really good filters in the system... There should be no dust at all. But do close off the sleeve holes while you are installing the boxes, and until you are ready to install the sleeves, to keep dust and debris out. Tape heavy plastic across the holes, for that, on the inner-layer of wood.

Looking good, Tom! It's really nice to see how the place looks with lights in it! It's beginning to look like it might be a studio one day....



- Stuart -

(PS. Check your e-mail in a few minutes: I'll be sending you an updated video, with the new AHU layout you wanted to try...)

[Purelythemusic]

Hi All,

Geeze finally finished a box today! Tricky tight fits as some of the timber wasn’t cut accurately enough... lump hammer required for persuading.

The new layout will give me a lot more flexibility for storage so I’m well happy with that!

Gladly we know the silencer placement for sure...just not the mounting, so we’re able to place them for now : )

I have some things to work out...the first box went up ok...with 10mm clearance : ) nothing broke, no one or thing damaged...just managed to get it up at the end of today!

More fun tomorrow then build the next one in half the time : )

[Soundman2020]

Precision engineering! That looks like it wasn't such an easy job to get that up there... I hope you didn't put it in upside down!

(Just kidding... I'm sure you got it right...)


- Stuart -

[Purelythemusic]

Ha, yea it was hairy : ) sleeve holes covered amd facing down : )

I do have a bit of a plan for tomorrow ; )

[Purelythemusic]

Well, we have a fairly smooth winch towards the intended placement... we actually ended up using our feet to encourage it in when we could get behind it... bracing off the concrete beams above. We nudged it almost into position but left it on 25mm square steel section to lift it for rubber placement and sleeve assembly.

We used some air bags to lift the box when necessary...which was slow and stiff but did work. I’m going to look into pneumatic hose connections to connect the 4 together and use the compressor air so we aren’t hand pumping all the time... I’ll regulate the pressure so need to decide what pressure they can handle...

Here’s the box now and the new one in construction!

[Purelythemusic]

Hi All!

I need to begin a paid job in about 4 weeks from now so I’m going to get an extra pair of hands where I can get it and push on with what can be done!

While I await the final HVAC silencer details I’m going to get the front door made up and hopefully the internal main room door and Frame. The timber isolation wall along the length of the corridor and the Mezzanine... thats my hope! Then I can test the room and use the corridor for some storage. Then I’ll have some odd days working on finishing it up over a period of weeks...which is frustrating but is where we are!

So, I’ve been reading Rods super door and the Door build thread in the reference area. Both start with a 44mm solid core door blank. Rod’s uses lead, then 18mm ply while thread here uses 2 x 20mm solid pine (I believe...imperial isn’t a strong suit). Rod uses Boot/trunk seals amd the thread here seeeeems to use normal looking rubber weather seal... not sure if it’s routed and pushed in or self adhesive...

Stuart had mentioned that I’ll end up with 3 doors, the external door needs to be pretty good isolation but not as much as the other two so I’ll get that done first. The frame I have installed is suitable for a 55mm solid core door so I’m planning on fixing just one more layer to the inside of the door amd adding one extra 25mm stop to the existing frame which incorporates a stop. 2 seals overall.

My questions for this door are:

OSB3 seems to be the highest density over solid wood and ply. MDF would be more dense but I don’t like it for an outside door... as I’m not too fussed about the look of this door, would OSB3 be my best bet? Edges sealed thoroughly!

Which type of seals will work best?

I need to deal with the threshold!

The frame has been tightly packed with Rockwool already.

[Starlight]

Source of the postOSB3 seems to be the highest density over solid wood and ply. MDF would be more dense but I don’t like it for an outside door... as I’m not too fussed about the look of this door, would OSB3 be my best bet? Edges sealed thoroughly!

Tom, OSB types 3 and 4 are designed for use in damp environments so the OSB3 you mention would indeed be the better choice for your exterior door.

[Purelythemusic]

Source of the post for

Great, yes that was my understanding too! Just need to sort out the seals. I think the door seal I will use a small routed in version or even self adhesive option, then maybe a boot seal partly rebated in a door stop for the second one.

Just bought 30 tubes of green glue for the isolation wal : )

[Purelythemusic]

I spoke with a seal specialist...I also have some concerns about flood protection and the seal they sell to manufacturers of flood doors is seal 1707. They said 1708 for me:

https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping. ... entId=1#77

The self adhesive bond strength seems insanely good too... it is different to both Rods and the thread build on here I think, but looks suitable to me.

Just the threshold to sort out if these seals are good

[Purelythemusic]

Although I’ve just found these perimeter seals while looking at thresholds...

https://www.norseal.co.uk/browse/acoust ... ls/norfast

And the best looking threshold I could find so far:

https://www.norseal.co.uk/browse/thresh ... tes/nor650

both of these seem to boast 54dbRw

The threshold could be used with a drop down seal... which I wasn’t confident in relying on alone, so a combination should work well I hope!

The seal which comes with the threshold is a lot like the perimeter seal... I think I could fit the storm type seal from seals direct to the threshold section from Norseal... of course the door will need to be hung with a larger than normal gap to the wood stop to accommodate the thicker rubber seal...

[Purelythemusic]

Evenings greetings!

We started on the timber stud wall today...wow it is sooo much slower sealing everything! We used 3 beads of silicone/adhesive/sealant for all the timber perimeter to seal it effectively where it meets masonry.

We had to put something in the decoupled floor gap, where the inner leaf walls are on a raft and the corridor is part of the outer leaf. We used loose fill Rockwool. We had to concrete a small section at one end before we could bed and fix out sole plate:

This was a handy way of routing the 10mm swa power feed and a couple of cat 6 cables into the studio too! Also a water pipe which goes out the outer leaf under ground for an external tap. All these go under the new concrete at least 80mm so they are well sealed. i preferred this to trying to create adequate seals around the cement board where they would have otherwise penetrated.

The next tricky was the block amd beam roof! We had to block timber using loads of adhesive sealer between the beams, then just about managed to get one header fixed up...propped with a couple of rough cut studs to ensure it doesn’t pull the sealed blocking down. I’m planning to pack the 10mm gap under the beams with Rockwool, ramming it in! I had considered mortar but it will shrink and crack I think so compact Rockwool seems the best option at the mo.

We had to adhesive only the vertical timber where the external wall is tanked... the adhesive is super strong and it’s not going to have much lateral force so I’m happy with it, it’s the first third of the wall, the upper section will be fixed to the outer leaf walls. Sealant behind everything!

Shame we are covering up the wall I rendered! It will add something to the mass : )

I’ve ordered the Rockwool 50mm for between the studs and inner leaf wall and 75mm between the 70mm studs.

Cement board in two layers to be ordered soon. Green glue and gun on site.

Framing nailer out tomorrow to get the framing done!

After further calculation last night on the mass of my external door, I am going to fit a sheet of 4mm steel between the solid core door amd 18mm OSB. It will add around 60kg to the 70kg which will be near half the mass of the wall itself. If I do a similar door for the new stud wall I’m thinking that they’ll both be matching the external leaf mass...even though they’re kind of not : )

Not sure what to do the inner leaf door out of...3 seals bit I can’t be making a 350kg door can I? (1600 kg/m3 * 0.215 not even including render and skim)!

[Purelythemusic]

Almost all framed out now!

The area above the doorway we’re going to add extra noggins in case the silencers that still need to be made are bigger than 470x355. They probably are!

[endorka]

Your project never ceases to astound me, amazing work. It will be interesting to see what you come up with for the doors.

Cheers!
Jennifer

[Purelythemusic]

Hi All,

Well 8’x4’ 12mm thick cement board ain’t light! It’s about 50kg a board! I’m my normal labourer short so I’ve got the Rockwool in and started on the boarding.

I’m planning to get up to the height of the inner ceiling with the first layer of board then a bit below on the second layer with green glue inbetween.

Cutting cement board isn’t lovely and fixing it isn’t easy either... having to drill the holes, widen the top so the drywall screws sink in a bit. I hope to get most of the boarding done tomorrow then skim what I can of the wall...Then I can get my mezzanine built for storage!

Just waiting on the last silencer box design so I can get them made.

Sorbothane is insanely expensive and my money is getting tight so I’m looking into alternatives.

[Purelythemusic]

Source of the post Your project never ceases to astound me, amazing work. It will be interesting to see what you come up with for the doors.

Cheers!
Jennifer

Thanks Jennifer!