Home Mix Room Overhaul - DIY Panel Build - w/ REW Charts/3D Sketchup

#61

Here's a rough sketch I made for the back wall superchunks going floor to ceiling and also across the top corner meeting in the tri-corners.

That's how big the "moveable" panel on wheels would need to be on the right there! :ahh:

(unless I bring the superchunk down a few more inches to cover the top of the door frame) Also, I made it rectangular since a triangular superchunk will always be in the way of the path there even if you scoot it around (and that doorway will be used often). I figure with more of a rectangular construction, it can at least sit flush to that right wall when I need it to. I'm going to play around with some angles though as I can probably make a hybrid type shape to serve both purposes a bit better. However, it still won't match the insulation depth of the opposite corner superchunk, but it will hopefully match the performance enough to keep things somewhat symmetrical in the lows (though Stuart said it wasn't as necessary on the rear wall).

This arrangement seems more doable to me than hangers (not sure what the performance difference would be between the two though...). I just don't know how I would work with those in any kind of symmetry considering the door and the fireplace. I would need a lot of blueprints to understand how to properly frame these into the room when I'm building. That part of this whole process is a mystery to me at this point as I have very little experience. BUT I'm a quick learner and know I could pull it off with the correct understanding/blueprints. Again, maybe I just need to pay Stuart!

Cheers!
Trevor

#62

And here's if I make it angled with 1x12s so it fits the corner shape better. But could still turn out and be flush with that back side wall for ease of opening the doorway (which I will probably make open into the other room).

Not sure if it would be stable with wheels considering how tall it is.

Thoughts?

#63

I'm going superchunk crazy! Ahhhhhhh :ahh:

I'm sure some of these would need some slats for bring back some high end... :ugeek:

#64

shybird wrote:Source of the post I'm going superchunk crazy! Ahhhhhhh

I'm sure some of these would need some slats for bring back some high end...

Good sketch up skills!!

#65

Haha thanks Gabriel! It helps me see what this might actually start looking like. And so others can call me out if I start doing something crazy! :cop:

#66

The absorber arrangement in the rear tri-corners looks immense! And the movable panel with angled with 1x12s is also superb, looks much better than the standard design.

Concerning the stability of the movable panel, I reckon that is something "worth the watching" as they say here. If you build these sturdy and square they can be surprisingly stable. Nonetheless, they could do considerable damage to your room, gear or people if they fall over. Think about an empty bookshelf of that size falling over. I'd say yours warrants extra special attention as it will be in the doorway. Someone could could barge through the doorway in a hurry and crash right into it. Great potential for a Laurel and Hardy sketch, not so great for a music studio.

Would a rail and pivot system work? I don't know what these are called, but we have one on some bi-fold doors in our house. The rails go along the top and bottom of the door frames;

If you placed the lower rail in the floor / wall corner of the side wall and the upper rail attached to the wall above it, that would allow it to be slid and rotated into the positions you have in the design for your "in place" and "stored" positions. Bonus: if you put a handle on the rear of the panel people entering the room could slide the panel from "in place" to the stored position as easily as opening a door.

One glitch I can think of at the moment, please pardon my shady pseudo engineering explanation: with one panel there is nothing stopping the door falling over rotation wise in the plane defined by the rails. The hinged endpoint into the wall of the concertina stops this happening with bi--fold doors, but of course you don't have this. Presumably there are off the shelf solutions to this problem, e.g. adding length to the pivot bogie into the rail.

If you think the notion has any merit I'll fire up a sketch later, will no doubt explain better than words!

Cheers!
Jennifer

#67

endorka wrote:Source of the post The absorber arrangement in the rear tri-corners looks immense! And the movable panel with angled with 1x12s is also superb, looks much better than the standard design.

Thanks Jennifer! They are pretty huge haha. Double the size of a standard super chunk. I just figure if the corners are where I will get the most bang for my buck, then I might as well go bigger considering the height of the ceilings (12 foot). I just gotta figure out how to build these things! I have no idea. Trying to find solid build logs for these but so far there's just not enough detail to make me feel comfortable moving forward.

I'd say yours warrants extra special attention as it will be in the doorway. Someone could could barge through the doorway in a hurry and crash right into it. Great potential for a Laurel and Hardy sketch, not so great for a music studio.

I'd say you're right! Haha this thing will be pretty massive. The good news is that I can just keep it against the wall for recording sessions. I figure it won't be crucial for the corner except when actually mixing. Also, the door will open the other direction, so anyone coming from the other room would at least have a moment to realize it's there before they could barge through. But as I said previously, I'm usually alone when mixing so it wouldn't be too much of an issue.

However, I LOVE your idea of the sliding rails! I'm not entirely sure how to envision that type of thing across a corner like this. But I assume it would be diagonal right? And then just fold up to the side but not completely flush? I think it could be really cool though if I could pull it off!

Also, this gave me the idea that if I do go the panel with wheels route, I could put some security straps on the back attached to the wall somehow. So that if it did start to tip over, the straps would keep it from actually falling.

I also tried one other idea in sketchup where as much of the "triangle" is fixed on the right side of the doorway/wall and then the remaining portion is attached directly to the right side of the door. But at these dimensions, I just don't think it will work. The portion on the door would have to be smaller otherwise it will still just be partially and annoyingly in the walk-way when you open the door. :roll:

Cheers and thank you for the ideas!
Trevor

#68

I think I better understand the track layout now! Would they both be on the right side wall next to the door? And the panel would attach on the right side top and bottom? And then the issue you present is that there is nothing on the left side to stabilize it as you move it from flush to diagonal? Hope that makes sense! Hard to explain lol.

I wonder if a couple wheels on the bottom left of the panel would give the addition balance/stability it needs to support the left side that isn’t on the tracks?

#69

shybird wrote:Source of the post I think I better understand the track layout now! Would they both be on the right side wall next to the door? And the panel would attach on the right side top and bottom? And then the issue you present is that there is nothing on the left side to stabilize it as you move it from flush to diagonal? Hope that makes sense! Hard to explain lol.

I wonder if a couple wheels on the bottom left of the panel would give the addition balance/stability it needs to support the left side that isn’t on the tracks?

That sounds about right. I was definitely envisaging a castor wheel where you say. I'll do a sketch later for clarity, it really is quite hard to describe.

Cheers,
Jennifer

#70

Ok cool! No rush and no worries if you can’t. But thank you in advance for the additional visual!

Cheers
Trevor

#71

A very simple illustration of the principle, not to scale:

A single caster wheel at the end of the superchunk not in the rail would do the trick.

The unwanted degree of freedom I mentioned is the inability of this setup to keep the panel vertical in the rails. For example it could be in one place at the bottom rail and another at the top. Quite simple to prevent; an "I" shaped bar running along the rails would prevent movement in this axis. There will be other ways too.

Cheers,
Jennifer

#72

Yes! Thank you Jennifer! That makes total sense and I can definitely see this working. I just need to find all the right hardware for the rails and what not. Super cool and would be functional/sleek all at the same time.

Also, that makes sense now about the vertical plane needing an "I" shaped bar of some kind to keep it from getting out of whack.

Cheers!
Trevor

#73

Also, here is the attached "room modes" calculation from amroc. Looks like the first one is around 36Hz. My superchunk designs have depth in the center face to the back corner of 2' and from the side edge of the trap to the back corner of about 2'10". This puts the face of the superchunk at about 4' wide. I'm going to look up the equations again but is this going to be big enough to affect that low of a frequency?

Obviously if you count the depth down the long end of these they are the size of the room length/width...hope I'm making sense here. I will do some more searching for this answer as well.

Cheers
Trevor

#74

Greetings Jennifer and Trevor,

The moveable panel looks great, although methinks that the "mechanism" needs to be damped somehow to prevent sympathetic vibration (or as we common-folk prefer to call it, rattling) in the channel.

All in all, I still think its great!

All the best,

Paul

#75

Thanks Paul! That seems like a good thing to point out. Any idea's how we might go about that? Maybe some rails would be made better than others and wouldn't rattle?

Also, for that 36Hz mode (which seems to be closer to 40Hz in the actual REW test I did), if I follow the 1/16 wavelength rule then I would need 1.96' (59cm) of insulation to affect that frequency (which is 31.38 feet long!). Fortunately, I'm hitting that exactly with these superchunks. However, I read a post Stuart made that said 1/16 is the minimum when using absorption alone, and 1/8 is much better. That would mean I need 3.92' (119cm) of insulation or more. Like I said, it depends what I can count as depth in regard to these superchunks but I'm definitely not going to hit 4' from middle of face to back corner.

Any thoughts here would be helpful. Just want to make sure I'm going in the right direction and will be able to dampen that lowest mode. I'm assuming the fact that these would be going from wall to wall and floor to ceiling will help in regards to these super low frequencies and that it's ok the depth isn't quite hitting that 4' mark from face to back corner (since there is technically over 15' depth LxW of the room and 12' depth floor to ceiling).

Thanks again!
Trevor

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