Private studio in Slovakia
- Starlight
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Private studio in Slovakia
That was a quick reply and a short answer; exactly what I was hoping to hear. Thanks, Stuart.
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Private studio in Slovakia
Great progress Starlight!
So great to see someone progressing : ) I look forward to seeing the silencers finished and in place.
Great initiative to make rails for the circ! If you need to cut melamime faced stuff you can get a chip guard on the blade side and opposite side (so it stays flat)
Looking good!
So great to see someone progressing : ) I look forward to seeing the silencers finished and in place.
Great initiative to make rails for the circ! If you need to cut melamime faced stuff you can get a chip guard on the blade side and opposite side (so it stays flat)
Looking good!
- Success in music is being able to make music whatever your situation -
- Starlight
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Private studio in Slovakia
They are now in place - see post 65 on the previous page.Purelythemusic wrote:Source of the postI look forward to seeing the silencers finished and in place.
The HVAC company boss says his team can come in September to fit the ventilator and ducts so in a few weeks the silencers should look like they are doing something.
What's with your place, Tom? We haven't seen any updates since June. Is that due to the lockdown?
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Private studio in Slovakia
Ah yes great! Apologies I had not caught up!
Mine’s on a financial delay, and lockdown... to get the silencers in place I need 2 other guys maybe 3 in the emclosed space. Also I’ve got back to work since running super low on money. I have a 1st stage summary post to do in the next week or so...
Great job!
Mine’s on a financial delay, and lockdown... to get the silencers in place I need 2 other guys maybe 3 in the emclosed space. Also I’ve got back to work since running super low on money. I have a 1st stage summary post to do in the next week or so...
Great job!
- Success in music is being able to make music whatever your situation -
- Starlight
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Private studio in Slovakia
The HVAC company came for two days to install the ventilation system.
Day 1: putting up the ducts in the studio. All the ducts have a diameter of 20cm. There is a gap between the end of the fresh air duct (the farthest one in the photo) and the AC for a plenum - see post 74 for an explanation and drawing. The extracted air duct has two openings to make it a bit quieter than it would be with one.
Outside the studio the ventilator was mounted, hanging from 4 ceiling supports.
For those of a certain age, like me, it reminds me of Thunderbird 2.
Day 2: The ducts between the ventilator and the baffle boxes.
The ventilator needed to be rotated by 20° to make connecting all 4 ducts possible without silly bends. As the HVAC company only has 45° and 90° bends, this called for 4 short sections of flexible duct, which has the added, unplanned benefit of isolating the ventilator from the solid ducts, which will isolate any vibrations the ventilator may make. In the red circle is a DIY mount made of two penny washers and two sorbothane rings, on all 4 ventilator mounts, to dampen any vibrations from being flanked to the building. We did a test run and even on the highest setting (250 cu.m/hour, enough fresh air for approx. 10 people at 25cu.m/hr = 15CFM per person) and without studio doors it was impressively quiet.
The last thing was to put up the two grey grilles on the outside of the building. I need to buy some insect netting to put behind the grilles to stop insects crawling or flying in.
Next: complete the corridor ceiling and put up a drop ceiling inside the studio, both winter jobs for our builder (with help from me) so don't expect a further update too soon. Two studio doors will be an expensive step so they will have to wait.
Day 1: putting up the ducts in the studio. All the ducts have a diameter of 20cm. There is a gap between the end of the fresh air duct (the farthest one in the photo) and the AC for a plenum - see post 74 for an explanation and drawing. The extracted air duct has two openings to make it a bit quieter than it would be with one.
Outside the studio the ventilator was mounted, hanging from 4 ceiling supports.
For those of a certain age, like me, it reminds me of Thunderbird 2.
Day 2: The ducts between the ventilator and the baffle boxes.
The ventilator needed to be rotated by 20° to make connecting all 4 ducts possible without silly bends. As the HVAC company only has 45° and 90° bends, this called for 4 short sections of flexible duct, which has the added, unplanned benefit of isolating the ventilator from the solid ducts, which will isolate any vibrations the ventilator may make. In the red circle is a DIY mount made of two penny washers and two sorbothane rings, on all 4 ventilator mounts, to dampen any vibrations from being flanked to the building. We did a test run and even on the highest setting (250 cu.m/hour, enough fresh air for approx. 10 people at 25cu.m/hr = 15CFM per person) and without studio doors it was impressively quiet.
The last thing was to put up the two grey grilles on the outside of the building. I need to buy some insect netting to put behind the grilles to stop insects crawling or flying in.
Next: complete the corridor ceiling and put up a drop ceiling inside the studio, both winter jobs for our builder (with help from me) so don't expect a further update too soon. Two studio doors will be an expensive step so they will have to wait.
- Starlight
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Private studio in Slovakia
Just in case this helps anyone with their ventilator installation, here is what happened 5 years ago. The same HVAC company sold us and installed our ventilator and AC. The ventilator looked like this when it was installed.
I bought some penny washers and sorbothane rings.
Put in place so that the ventilator is sitting on these rings, it looked like this.
Someone commented that the sorbothane looked too thin and so, as I had a packet of 8 rings, I put two on each mount.
I bought some penny washers and sorbothane rings.
Put in place so that the ventilator is sitting on these rings, it looked like this.
Someone commented that the sorbothane looked too thin and so, as I had a packet of 8 rings, I put two on each mount.
Private studio in Slovakia
Greetings Starlight,
Thanks for posting the pictures. Should be quite helpful indeed for many on here.
All the best,
Paul
Thanks for posting the pictures. Should be quite helpful indeed for many on here.
All the best,
Paul
Private studio in Slovakia
That is incredibly useful, thank you. I've been trying to figure out how to float silencer boxes on floor joists (as opposed to ceiling) and that has inspired the answer. The problem was how to stop the silencers sliding or vibrating off sorbothane dome shaped pads. The sorbothane rings are just the thing though, I could put circular locater "keys" or protrusions in the joists and silencer outriggers that fit into the centre hole of the ring. As long as the keys don't come into contact with each other under compression all should be well.
Do you have any photos of the ceiling assembly from above? Presumably the ventilator bracket shouldn't touch the bolt directly, and I'm wondering how you achieved that.
Thanks again!
Jennifer
Do you have any photos of the ceiling assembly from above? Presumably the ventilator bracket shouldn't touch the bolt directly, and I'm wondering how you achieved that.
Thanks again!
Jennifer
Website: https://www.jenclarkmusic.com/
Private studio in Slovakia
Greetings Jennifer,
Perhaps a simpler solution might be to use sorbothane sheets and wrap it around the joist at your "floating" locations.
Just a thought.
All the best,
Paul
Perhaps a simpler solution might be to use sorbothane sheets and wrap it around the joist at your "floating" locations.
Just a thought.
All the best,
Paul
- Starlight
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Private studio in Slovakia
endorka wrote:Source of the postDo you have any photos of the ceiling assembly from above? Presumably the ventilator bracket shouldn't touch the bolt directly, and I'm wondering how you achieved that.
I can take some photos from above.
Because it is hanging from the ceiling, I would like to find sorbothane brackets that looks like this to be really certain of isolation.
For floating silencers on floor joists that wouldn't work. Paul's suggestion of sheet sorbothane has some merit. It also leads me to think of flush mounted monitors that sit on sorbothane. What holds the monitors firm enough that they cannot move sideways or slide back or forward? The same securing principle could possibly be applied to your silencers, Jennifer.
Edited to add: I bought my ceiling isolation mounts from AMC in Spain. www.mecanocaucho.com/en-GB/ is the English web site, full of interesting anti-vibration products. The DRD anti vibration mounts looks like it might serve your need.
Private studio in Slovakia
Starlight wrote:It also leads me to think of flush mounted monitors that sit on sorbothane. What holds the monitors firm enough that they cannot move sideways or slide back or forward? The same securing principle could possibly be applied to your silencers, Jennifer.
I believe appropriately loaded / compressed sorbothane can be used on the sides and rear to this end. Stuart has a method for this that he quite rightly keeps for clients.
I bought my ceiling isolation mounts from AMC in Spain. www.mecanocaucho.com/en-GB/ is the English web site, full of interesting anti-vibration products. The DRD anti vibration mounts looks like it might serve your need.
Thank you for that, these are absolutely spot on - "Their design makes them ideal for those machines that produce vibrations in 3 axes". Sorted!
Cheers,
Jennifer
Website: https://www.jenclarkmusic.com/
Private studio in Slovakia
Greetings Jennifer,
Looks perfect, however, is the 50 kg weight rating going to suffice (I don't know how big you silencers are.)? Methinks you'll need to do some math to make sure you get enough of them, and be able to place them appropriately to distribute the load.
All the best,
Paul
Thank you for that, these are absolutely spot on - "Their design makes them ideal for those machines that produce vibrations in 3 axes". Sorted!
Looks perfect, however, is the 50 kg weight rating going to suffice (I don't know how big you silencers are.)? Methinks you'll need to do some math to make sure you get enough of them, and be able to place them appropriately to distribute the load.
All the best,
Paul
Private studio in Slovakia
Starlight,
I had read John H. Brandt's paper on studio wiring, and I also spoke with him over a zoom call. I thought I remembered him saying he twists the hot/neutral wires (like you did), but has them twisted around the ground conductor? In the picture you showed of the twisted cable that you did, it looks like you have the hot/neutral wires twisted, and then you have the ground wire running along side of it. Did I just misunderstand what John said/wrote, or did he advise you to do it this way?
I had read John H. Brandt's paper on studio wiring, and I also spoke with him over a zoom call. I thought I remembered him saying he twists the hot/neutral wires (like you did), but has them twisted around the ground conductor? In the picture you showed of the twisted cable that you did, it looks like you have the hot/neutral wires twisted, and then you have the ground wire running along side of it. Did I just misunderstand what John said/wrote, or did he advise you to do it this way?
- Starlight
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Private studio in Slovakia
John showed me his sample during a zoom call: twisted live and neutral and a straight earth.
Private studio in Slovakia
Oh great! Did you need to tape the wire ever x distance so it wouldn't un-twist? Or did it stay twisted on it's own?
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