Garden mix room near Nottingham, UK

#16

Hi

The wood for framing and OSB arrives on Friday and I plan to get the walls up over the Christmas break. For the outside structure I have read a lot about expansion gaps between sheets of OSB3 with the usual amount of difference in opinion.

I am assuming that I should leave 3mm between each board and then caulk the gaps before adding the second staggered/overlapped layer of OSB, and then the the tyvek house wrap....

Is this what others have done?

Thanks
Gareth

#17

garethmetcalf wrote:Source of the postIs this what others have done?

Not quite but then my studio is in a north-facing room in a larger brick building so my studio's temperature range is likely to be considerably less than yours.

It might be worth looking through the wood-framed barn type studios done in Canada and the USA over on Gearslutz (here) and asking what they did.

In case you are interested, the 5th and 9th photos in post 20 of my build (here) show that I left just enough room to squeeze in backer rod at the floor and room corners but butted adjacent OSB edges together. I later caulked the gaps.

#18

Thanks again Starlight. I had already read that on your build, but cheers for the reminder. In terms of isolation I am planning to caulk around the inside of each of the stud bays (if that's what they're called) before filling them with rock wool.

I'll do some deeper reading on some other forums as you suggest.

Cheers

#19

Hi
I spent Friday making the two external leaf silencers which will be located between the roof joists, one at each end of the building.

I took the time to test the fan worked before storing this all for use in a few weeks time. The inside leaf silencers will have a larger area and larger outlets in order to slow the air down.

Tomorrow the bricklayers add bricks to the top of the concrete blocks and Monday the perimeter of the concrete is back filled with gravel to make french drain. After that it’s on with the framing and OSB, weather dependent. It is England after all

#20

garethmetcalf wrote:Source of the post
I am assuming that I should leave 3mm between each board and then caulk the gaps before adding the second staggered/overlapped layer of OSB, and then the the tyvek house wrap....
Thanks
Gareth

Don't go nuts trying to space the OSB by exactly 3mm. Simply put 2 or 3 nails in between the two sheets. That gap is the "right" amount of gap. lol. Go to 2:50 in this video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qn4SFJBHk7Y

For your silencer boxes, what is that foam you used to line the inside with?

#21

Hi Jag
Thanks for the advice.
The foam is from a company called eFoam and is the top item on the page linked below. I bought the 25mm thick stuff and with it being self adhesive it’s really easy to work with.

https://www.efoam.co.uk/acoustic-soundproofing-foam.php

Cheers
Gareth

#22

Day 27: got framing up and a roof on!

I spent a few days this week marking up and cutting wood for the outside wall frames, and then assembled them on Christmas Eve.

Today my brother in law and I fixed the frames to the dwarf walls, got the joists up and the first layer of OSB on to the roof. It was almost dark when we were putting a tarpaulin over the OSB so I couldn’t get an end of day picture but I’m really pleased with getting this much done in one day.

#23

That is one big step forward. Well done, Gareth!

#24

garethmetcalf wrote:Source of the post Hi Jag
The foam is from a company called eFoam and is the top item on the page linked below. I bought the 25mm thick stuff and with it being self adhesive it’s really easy to work with.

https://www.efoam.co.uk/acoustic-soundproofing-foam.php

Cheers
Gareth

I'm a little concerned with the foam you are using. It does not appear to be a duct liner. Putting regular acoustic foam inside of HVAC ducts or silencers can be very bad, as they can/will break down over time, causing you to breath in the small particles from the foam (as well as emit a terrible odor). The only thing that should be going inside your silencer boxes (or ductwork) are products that are specifically designed for it. Duct liner has a coating on it to help it withstand the constant air flow so it does not break down over time. I don't know what manufacturers you have in your part of the world, but here we have several. This is an example of a product here in the states.

https://www.grainger.com/product/SOUND- ... iner-1VDN4

I would SERIOUSLY consider looking at your foam and making sure it's OK to use inside the silencer boxes (or any ductwork). Once you close them up and put them in your walls, fixing it becomes a monster project. Better to do it right the first time.

The foundation and framing look fantastic. Keep us updated on the build!

#25

Jag94 wrote:Source of the postI'm a little concerned with the foam you are using.

That came to mind when I saw your foam photos, Gareth, but I was too tired to start trying explain. Jag94 is right, though, how foam disintegrates over time (we are talking about a few years) so it will be necessary to leave access to the silencer boxes for when they need new foam.

If it is of any worth, check out the duct liner I used in post 56 of my build topic, along with the link to Tom in Bristol who mentioned it first and to the company on Merseyside that makes it.

PS. Regarding efoam.co.uk, any company that says, "Our acoustic foam soundproofs," and, "soundproofing foam," makes it difficult to believe its claims.

#26

Damn it. I used that foam in my previous build but was only in that space for a year.

Unfortunately I’ve slotted both those external leaf silencers between the joists! I haven’t made the internal leaf ones yet thankfully. It could be a real nightmare to get the exhaust one back out.

Thanks guys for the info - it’s better to get this right now.

Question: could I leave the external leaf exhaust silencer as it is with the foam in? This would be the hardest to remove and I’m guessing if the foam does break down over time those particles will just be released outside. The inlet one should be easier to take out and dismantle....

#27

It sounds as thought your silencers are already finished and installed, in which case it might be wiser now to continue with your build and deal with the silencers at a convenient time after the build is finished and before the foam has disintegrated too much.

From but what I have read 10 years (+/-) is possible, it depends on how strong the air blowing over the foam will be and for how long. If what you have used is acoustic foam it should outlast ordinary foam.

#28

If it's the exhaust silencer you're probably fine. And if Starlight is right (I have no data or experience to prove otherwise), you may not see/hear any adverse effects of the degrading foam any time soon, if at all. So I wouldn't worry. I'd be more concerned with air coming into the room that you will be breathing.

#29

Thanks yes I think ill leave the exhaust one as is and take the inlet one back out and sort that.
Problem is once I put the roof soffits up these aren’t coming out again so it’s this week or never!

Cheers
Gareth

#30

Got the inlet silencer out without too much trouble but splitting it apart to get the foam out was much more of a mission.

I’ll get some proper duct liner ordered and then this can go back in.

On Monday my Dad and I got half the OSB sheathing up - two overlapping layers on the back and right wall.

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