Part 2 of 3 things that will hang from the ceiling: first was the space couplers, above. Second is the hexagonal lamp shades which, as you will see, are finished but not yet in place. Third will be the cloud.
The last photo above is of the 7 hexagons I had cut out. I then routed round what will be the inner edge.
I discovered that the edge was not perfectly straight. This is because the supplied guide slides along the outer edge of the hexagon and the router bit reaches over to where I want to rout. I was not happy with my work.
I am learning that tools need guides to not only help them run the right course but also to not allow them to deviate. More studying of YouTube videos and I discovered that I would be better off using a flush trim bit. Lockdown means ordering online (in this instance from Germany) and waiting 10 days for delivery. Time for a new homemade jig for the router, allowing for the 120 degree corners.
That's better! Now I am happy.
All 7 cut out.
Apply linseed oil.
Practice makes perfect. 20 holes for 10 lamps, 6 in the hexagons and 4 in the cloud.
So I have the hexagons and the lamp mounts but I need to make something to keep the holes dead centre and floating above the hexagons - the top of the hexagons need to be level with the bottom of the lamp mounts.
Before fixing what look like little ladders that hold the lamp mounts we had to wait a few weeks until lockdown eased so that we could go and select the breathable textile. The shop didn't have enough in stock so there was a further wait while the shop ordered more. We will use this on the cloud and the traps so we bought 70 metres in all. I added the steel tracks as a way of mounting the hexagons to the ceiling hooks they will hang from and keeping them evenly spaced. They will be put in place in 3 parts: the centre 3 and then a pair on either side, for which the plasterboard lift will come in handy.
I decided to have the lamps independent of the hexagons as a safety measure - I would not want the weight of 7 hexagons (35kg) pulling on the mains cables during fitting or lowering of the hexagons, should that ever be necessary. The mounts glued to the lamps slot into the top of the ladder and determine how far each lamp will poke through. I chose ceiling lamps because these are designed to not require an opening at the top for heat dispersion and I wanted to be able to use E27 (ie. ordinary) bulbs, not (recessed) GU10.
The lamps have small connectors (on the left in the photo below) which are so small I can only insert one cable but I need two (mains in and mains out). Lockdown means I cannot simply pop round to the electrical shop so I ordered the Wago connectors online from Lithuania and waited 10 days for them. It turns out that braided wire, which we are using, is not strong enough to insert into the connectors. I tinned the ends to make the cables stronger but that didn't do the trick. So I have now ordered larger connectors (from the UK) like the ones on the lamps and am now waiting for them to arrive.
I was going to wait until I had the hexagons up on the ceiling before posting my report but lockdown lag (as I call it) has managed to stretch what I thought would be a 2-3 week job into 9 weeks so far so I decided not to wait any longer.
In closing, to add to comments made in others' topics, here are two things. First, Jennifer recommends saw tables. I bought a pair and while I am not using them for sawing yet, they make a terrific mobile worktop where I can do so many things that I have done on the floor so far, such as measuring and marking wood for cutting, and a place to leave commonly used items. It is great to get good suggestions from others!
The other thing was someone mentioned about blade depth when sawing. I showed somewhere near the top of this page how setting the depth of the blade on the table saw allowed me to cut half the depth of the wood for the space couplers. Here are two photos I took yesterday as I started sawing wood for the cloud. I was using lengths of 15mm OSB as a level base (on a tiled floor) for the plywood board and OSB offcuts as supports for the slats that are being cut. At worst they would fall 15mm to the floor but I get neater cuts when the sawn wood is supported and so does not pull down as the cut nears the end.
With 15mm of OSB between the plywood and the floor, the blade on my circular saw protrudes apprimately half way, enough to ensure the plywood gets cut and little enough to ensure the blade never risks making contact with the floor. I like sawing boards on the floor as they are stable and level on the floor. Pallets were great supports, as I demonstrated when I cut MDF for my silencer boxes.
While I am waiting for the lamp connectors to arrive I am preparing to make the cloud so there is always something to keep me occupied.
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