952 Studios Construction!

#76

gullfo wrote:Source of the post depending on the rockwool product density - you might even put a layer of the rockwool into that air space. you have 8-3/4" air, and 9" of rockwool.

Well I can’t tell you how well this worked out. The 3rd layer of rockwool between the studs fit perfectly, and because rockwool is an appropriate fire stop in my town, I no longer need to pack out the walls every 8 feet for fire stops.

This was perfect!

#77

Question on the isomax clips weight rating and how to calculate it.

Isomax isolation clips state they are rated at 36 lbs per clip. Does this mean I should take the total weight of what I am attaching to the clips and divide by 36 to know how many clips I need?

Id like to do 1/2" plywood, 2 layers of 5/8" gypsum, and 1 layer of 1/2" gypsum on my ceiling to make up for deficits Im going to have dealing with the roof venting.

If I do the math:

1/2" Ply = 1.42
5/8" Gyp = 2.2
1/2" Gyp = 1.6

Total for these materials is 7.42 lbs/sqft.

If I am doing a ceiling segment of 90 sq ft, that is a total of 668 lbs. Do I divide that by 36 and that is how many clips I need evenly spaced out? (18)

Thoughts? I just want to double check my math.

#78

plus what are you hanging on the ceiling? absorbers, clouds, likes, sex-chairs, etc :-)

so you need to factor that in. i generally assume 12lb/ft between structure components, lights, clouds, and maybe things like mics, additional spot lighting etc. but let's say 10lb/ft2

let's say your 90ft2 is really 900lbs - i'd go to 75% on the clips - so 27lb per clip. = 35 clips + extras with the hat channel 24 o.c. and the clips near the ends of the hat channel no more than 6" from the end.

#79

gullfo wrote:Source of the post plus what are you hanging on the ceiling? absorbers, clouds, likes, sex-chairs, etc so you need to factor that in. i generally assume 12lb/ft between structure components, lights, clouds, and maybe things like mics, additional spot lighting etc. but let's say 10lb/ft2

let's say your 90ft2 is really 900lbs - i'd go to 75% on the clips - so 27lb per clip. = 35 clips + extras with the hat channel 24 o.c. and the clips near the ends of the hat channel no more than 6" from the end.

Good point. I hadn’t thought of the additional weight from clouds etc.

Assuming I do the first layer of plywood on the furring strips, when I attach the gypsum to the plywood, do I try and hit the furring strip or is just hitting the plywood good enough? I remember constantly missing the furring strips when I did my basement years ago. I don’t want to relive that torture.

Also, green glue on all layers or just the drywall layers?

#80

the plywood should be ok - it needs to be at least 1/2" or 5/8" and i suggest exterior grade (density) and also ensure the fasteners are the right length at each layer. e.g. for the plywood, say 1/2", you would use 3/4" into the hat channel. the first gwb - 5/8", use 1-1/2", and layer two gwb 2" - this limits penetration to 1/4" beyond the previous layer to avoid contacting the supporting structure.

#81

One last bit of framing to close up the top loft area and the framing of my room in a room is complete! The air lock was very complicated because of all the odd angles. I sure am glad the rest of the studio is plain old 90°’s I can’t imagine how long it must take some of these guy to work out all the cuts and get them right. Just doing these 15/30° cut pieces made me crazy.

My live room would have been pretty close to a square without introducing this airlock and it’s odd angles. Hopefully it helps me out a bit.

#82

eightamrock wrote:Source of the post The air lock was very complicated

Hopefully this doesn't come out the wrong way, but why do you need an airlock? Is there a reason you couldn't just do normal 2-leaf walls with back-to-back doors? Do you really need to lose that space from your room?

- Stuart -

#83

Soundman2020 wrote:Source of the post
eightamrock wrote:Source of the post The air lock was very complicated
Hopefully this doesn't come out the wrong way, but why do you need an airlock? Is there a reason you couldn't just do normal 2-leaf walls with back-to-back doors? Do you really need to lose that space from your room?

- Stuart -

Not coming out the wrong way at all! It’s a reasonable observation. I originally wanted an airlock, iso booth, and a closet. I gave both the iso booth and closet up to reclaim space in the live room (a wise idea). An idea Glenn had at one point was to use the small hallway I had in an earlier design as a makeshift iso booth, so I stole the idea and implemented it here with my airlock. So I get a booth and airlock in one. Felt like a win for a fraction of the space.

#84

Ahh! OK, that makes sense.

If it will double as an iso-booth, then don't forget to put cables and wall panels in there, for connecting mics, instruments, headphones, computers, etc.
And also electrical outlets, of course.

- Stuart -

#85

Maybe you already thought of this, but I'd also suggest putting a small window in there, for visual sight lines between the iso booth and the rooms. Maybe even just a glass panel in the door would do the job. If that won't work for whatever reason, then cameras and video screens are another viable options (in which case, you need cabling for those too!).

- Stuart -

#86

Soundman2020 wrote:Source of the post Maybe you already thought of this, but I'd also suggest putting a small window in there, for visual sight lines between the iso booth and the rooms. Maybe even just a glass panel in the door would do the job. If that won't work for whatever reason, then cameras and video screens are another viable options (in which case, you need cabling for those too!).

Yep! Absolutely. The plan was to use glass panel doors so there is a sight line to the control room as well as the live room. Now that I have some experience building high isolation windows, my next big project will be these doors!

For my cabling I took your and Glenn’s advice. Will be multiple multi-channel balanced snakes as well as hdmi, usb, and several cat6 runs. Better safe than sorry.

#87

eightamrock wrote:Source of the post Better safe than sorry

Absolutely!

- Stuart -

#88

Got my final framing and rough fire inspection approvals this morning! Very excited to move on to electrical. Though it is getting quite unbearable with the humidity and heat in the north east. There is a lot of sweat going into the building of this place.

Also received my fantech ERV and LG mini split systems. Hopefully will start working on the ducting soon.

#89

well, if you have doors and windows on the exterior - get yourself a free standing AC unit and vent it to the outside. you can move it around to be in proximity of your work (add an additional insulated flex duct segment to extend it as needed). a single 12K BTU unit will make a big difference - remove some heat and lots of humidity. cover it when doing the sanding bits or using spray painters... :-)

#90

gullfo wrote:Source of the post well, if you have doors and windows on the exterior - get yourself a free standing AC unit and vent it to the outside. you can move it around to be in proximity of your work (add an additional insulated flex duct segment to extend it as needed). a single 12K BTU unit will make a big difference - remove some heat and lots of humidity. cover it when doing the sanding bits or using spray painters...

Had some overcast today and managed to get 2 more windows built and installed. The whole process is about 3 days to sand, prime, paint, glaze, and seal everything up. 2 left!

That’s a great idea Glenn! I might take a portable I have and set that up. It’s getting unbearable.

For the window “inners” do you recommend any materials just to add some good fit and finish? I’m thinking about just getting some self adhesive neoprene to put between the inner and outer leaf windows, but I’m open to suggestions.

Also, not sure how to calculate the amount of desiccation I need. Anyone know the formula?

Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum