952 Studios Design Planning

[eightamrock]

Actually, you just gave me a great idea. I can run the condensate in the wall and down out the bottom of the outside wall. Then I can make the hole in the top plate smaller to just accommodate the 1/4” and 5/8” lines to the condenser.

Brilliant.

[Soundman2020]

Source of the post Actually, you just gave me a great idea.

A quick question: are you using two-leaf isolation walls? If so, then you should have two top-plates: one on the inner-leaf, where your room ceiling rests, on one on the outer leaf, where the roof rests. Usually it is possible to run the plumbing in between those two top plates. Is there a reason you can't to that? Maybe you are using a staggered-stud wall with common top plates (and sole plates)? Or maybe you aren't going for high isolation, and you don't have two-leaf walls? Trying to get my head around the issue here, and see if there are other solutions....

- Stuart -

[eightamrock]

Source of the post

Source of the post Actually, you just gave me a great idea.

A quick question: are you using two-leaf isolation walls? If so, then you should have two top-plates: one on the inner-leaf, where your room ceiling rests, on one on the outer leaf, where the roof rests. Usually it is possible to run the plumbing in between those two top plates. Is there a reason you can't to that? Maybe you are using a staggered-stud wall with common top plates (and sole plates)? Or maybe you aren't going for high isolation, and you don't have two-leaf walls? Trying to get my head around the issue here, and see if there are other solutions....

- Stuart -

Yep a little of both.

The live room is a full 2 leaf room in a room construction. This room is very high isolation. I’ve used 3 layers of rockwool in the cavities, 3 layers of mass on each side. GG will be between all layers.

The control room is slightly lower isolation. Iso clips and hat channel to decouple the mass from the inner walls. Still 2 layers of mass, but not full room in a room. This is where the problem resides.

[Soundman2020]

Source of the post Iso clips and hat channel to decouple the mass from the inner walls.

Ahhh! OK, now I get it. But that being the case, do you still have a good place to mount the mini-splt unit? Normally you want the base plate screwed into studs, but if you only have hat channel on iso clips, is that a good enough base? Honestly I' not sure: it's probably fine, but I'd check with the manufacturer of the clips.

Another off-the-top question: if there's a place to run the condensate drain on that wall, is there also a place where the compressor could go? I'm just trying to think of alternatives that would obviate the need to drill hug holes through the top plate.

Another option might be to check with a structural engineer and see if it is feasible to beef up the top plate in that area, so you it would still have enough integrity for the roof, even with the big holes.

- Stuart -

[eightamrock]

Source of the post

Source of the post Iso clips and hat channel to decouple the mass from the inner walls.

Ahhh! OK, now I get it. But that being the case, do you still have a good place to mount the mini-splt unit? Normally you want the base plate screwed into studs, but if you only have hat channel on iso clips, is that a good enough base? Honestly I' not sure: it's probably fine, but I'd check with the manufacturer of the clips.

Another off-the-top question: if there's a place to run the condensate drain on that wall, is there also a place where the compressor could go? I'm just trying to think of alternatives that would obviate the need to drill hug holes through the top plate.

Another option might be to check with a structural engineer and see if it is feasible to beef up the top plate in that area, so you it would still have enough integrity for the roof, even with the big holes.

- Stuart -

What I discussed with the HVAC tech is this:

Run the condensate drain inside that wall using a small pvc pipe to carry it from top to bottom and out the exterior. I will then pack out the inner leaf a little bit below the soffit where I will mount the mini split head. Then we will run the line set around the room, inside the soffit, and out the back of the building where the compressor is.

This eliminates drilling the top plate and the need for a pump to get the condensate out. Also puts the lines in a serviceable location should anything in the future ever need to be upgraded or fixed.

On the ISO clips, as per Glenns suggestion, I am over provisioning what the clips can carry. I have planned for 12 lbs per sqft, the mass alone is about 5. I will probably now add a layer of 1/2" plywood to support the soffit and HVAC which is another 2. So my total load is 7, but I have enough clips and proper spacing for 12.

[Soundman2020]

Sounds like a good plan!

- Stuart -

[largelyinborn]

Absolutely no problem at all! I appreciate your edits and emphasis on the crucial aspect of HVAC. Your comment resonates strongly, especially considering your hands-on experience in the field. Your insight adds significant weight to the conversation, making it more impactful than a mere suggestion. The highlights drive home the importance of your point, and I believe it will stand out for others reading the discussion. Thanks for enhancing the message!

[eightamrock]

Hi All,

Just looking for some feedback on my soffit and silencer designs.

Basically looking for guidance on a few things:

1. is it ok to pack the soffit like this and just have an area with no absorption where the silencer lives?
2. In terms of positioning in the room, is symmetry important for where the "hard spot" is or can I put the supply and return facing alternate directions back to back. The idea is then run flexible ducting to either end of the room in the soffits....

Thanks!

[gullfo]

yes or extend that side so you can add some of the insulation in front of it so at least its doing some absorption there. also, i typically only put the semi rigid on the face side and fill the rest, gentle packed with the soft pink (or typically light wall stuff).

so in ordering of things: install hvac things, then add soft insulation, then add semi-rigid. if you use 24" oc for the framing you can simply cut the semi-rigid to fit into the frame. 16" oc means more cutting

[eightamrock]

So now that I have been insprired by

Endorka

, would something like this work for soffits?

Ive already painted myself into a corner with my windows, but Im hoping that I can get away with a design like this... 30º angled speakers, the green area is the 32-44% listening position. My speakers are setup in a equilateral triangle with 7ft spacing. I would put more time into designing the soffits themselves, but curious if this would even work...

[gullfo]

yes, that would work.consider building across the front another unit for absorption there leaving a few feet for the AC unit. depending o nthe room modes, that front unit could become a membrane trap. meanwhile it will help with reflections off the front of the desk - which is why your lower parts of the soffits will be absorptive as well

[eightamrock]

Source of the post yes, that would work.consider building across the front another unit for absorption there leaving a few feet for the AC unit. depending o nthe room modes, that front unit could become a membrane trap. meanwhile it will help with reflections off the front of the desk - which is why your lower parts of the soffits will be absorptive as well

Thanks Glenn! The rigid surface of the baffles should be 3x the size of the sub woofer, is that in all directions? So in this case a 24" square since my sub is 8". It will likely be full width (about 3ft) of the face of the soffit. The height of the rigid component is what Im curious about. Also, I assume center placement is ideal, is center to the sub woofer or center to the speaker housing better?

[gullfo]

in the rear view of the soffit mounting, which will become behind the absorption face, is the plywood/mdf panel which extends the baffle below the edge of the front panel.