952 Studios Construction!

#121

It may seem like a small win, but I HAVE ELECTRICITY!

#122

whoo-hoo! no more living like you're rockin' in the stone age! :-)

nice that you use chalk lines to layout the drywall screws.

#123

Of all the work done so far, I am most proud of these windows. I used Stuarts built on site method. The outside glass is 3/8” laminated set with glazing tape and caulked with PVC trim cleating it into place. The interior is 5/8” glass set on a neoprene seal and cleated in place with some interior trim ( interior glass not shown in this photo.) I stuffed the 1” gap between the frames with rockwool, then I found these great 1/2” polyester felt boards and covered it all up. The felt cut amazingly on a table saw and its rigid, but not so rigid that it creates a flanking path but has a nice friction fit. I also used a brad nailer to tack it for good measure. It looks super cool too.

Also hid 40g of silica under the bottom felt. Since the inside window is just compression fit, I can always take the trim off to remove the glass and replace the silica if I have to.

#124

niely done! plus a nice view!

#125

Just like that, we have smooth walls. (Spoiler, I hired out the sanding and taping)

#126

yeah, that would be a bit of work to do it all by yourself :-)

next up the critical thing - paint color ;-)

#127

Ok new construction opinion needed.

I made the rough opening of my door frames in accordance with the RO of the doors I ordered. (34" x 82.5"). The the actual frame of the door is about 32.5" x 81". The problem this has lead to is a GIANT 1/2" gap around the door frame. What is the general opinion here? Should I take the slab and build a new frame that fits more tightly to my RO or should I leave it and just pack the space with MDF, caulk, insulation, and backer rod? I almost feel like by the time im done filling it, I could have recut a new jam assembly out of 5/4 stock and had it fitting fairly tightly. The RO is level and plumb.

Pictures for reference.

#128

if you're sure it's consistently 1/2" i'd probably use 1/2" thick strip (e.g. most dense plywood will be 15/32") and which is 1" less wide that the frame (leaving 1/2" depth on either side for the backer rod and caulk to seal it. the concept - provide a solid backing to the door jambs to the frame i.e. screw through the strip into the frame keep the frame stable and leave enough gap on the sides of the strip so you can ensure an air tight seal. if you can precisely rip the lumber that would give the most control on the fit.

#129

gullfo wrote:Source of the post if you're sure it's consistently 1/2" i'd probably use 1/2" thick strip (e.g. most dense plywood will be 15/32") and which is 1" less wide that the frame (leaving 1/2" depth on either side for the backer rod and caulk to seal it. the concept - provide a solid backing to the door jambs to the frame i.e. screw through the strip into the frame keep the frame stable and leave enough gap on the sides of the strip so you can ensure an air tight seal. if you can precisely rip the lumber that would give the most control on the fit.

Thanks Glenn. So you think the situation is salvageable, which is good. Its definitely a half inch, as you can see by the 1/2" MDF I used as a shim behind the strike plate. I think the door is pretty solid and not moving, my larger concern was building the air tight seal. I can rip plywood or mdf to use to fill out the jam, thanks for the advice!

#130

Glenn another question for you, to angle or not to angle the windows in the control room? Is 4º really going to do anything at all or does it just look cool?

Window designs and location for reference:

#131

not only does it look cool, but it's really only for optical purposes - and typically 6° if you have the jamb width. :-)

the angle will help reduce the light reflections.

and a set of really heavy drapes to pull over it when you want to mix will help, plus if you're letting folks use the live room for rehearsal and you don't want the distraction, etc.

#132

gullfo wrote:Source of the post not only does it look cool, but it's really only for optical purposes - and typically 6° if you have the jamb width. the angle will help reduce the light reflections.

and a set of really heavy drapes to pull over it when you want to mix will help, plus if you're letting folks use the live room for rehearsal and you don't want the distraction, etc.

So would only one side (control room) need to be angled? I assume the side in the live room would be fine flat as long as the other side is angled you wont get the "infinite mirror" effect.

#133

i would angle both windows because the "far" side window being vertical will have the same potential for reflections.

#134

gullfo wrote:i would angle both windows because the "far" side window being vertical will have the same potential for reflections.

Thanks Glenn! This is what I will go with.

A few more pics. Started framing some room treatments. Still have a long way to go but the soffits are turning out well.

Also had a little side project over the long weekend and organized my mic locker. Bought shadow foam from the UK and learned how to cut it. Was a bit tough but by the end I had it figured out.

#135

soffits are always nice in a room! and that "shure" is a nice collection of drum mics! :-)

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